Ribadesella 21st Jazz Festival

This weekend has seen the arrival in town of the 21st Ribadesella Jazz Festival, an event not to be missed if you like free outdoor concerts with a great atmosphere and great music. Each year if we are here, we usually pop along to the concerts which span three consecutive nights. The concerts take place in one of the main squares in town and are well attended by all age groups. They start at 11pm through to 12.30am or there abouts depending on how many encores they are called back for.

Friday night saw the blues band Red House take to the stage. The crowd was really got into the mood of the evening and young and old alike were dancing in the aisles and enjoying the strong guitar riffs and husky blues voice of the lead vocalist.

Saturday night was the concert I was most looking forward to: The Black Light Gospel Choir. Each year they usually have a gospel choir on the bill and it usually proves to be the most popular. Saturday's performance was no exception with their high energy performances, brilliant vocals and superb musical arrangements of some rock classics such as Stairway to Heaven, Ain't No Stopping Us Now and Hallelujah.

Sunday night's concert will be Skytrain who are billed as being a jazz fusion band - if the energy levels allow we'll pop along and see what they are like but from previous year's experiences of jazz fusion it is not really my cup of tea but we'll see....

Town is buzzing at the moment with the holiday season well and truly on its way. Although it's great to see so many visitors, it is also great when at the end of August, things start to quieten and the peace and tranquillity returns to the streets, beaches and mountain walks. 

A walk through time: on the edge of Ribadesella town

We frequently walk around Ribadesella and never tire of the narrow, quiet streets and interesting buildings even though it is a very small town. It doesn't take much to see how the town has developed over the years and how the once, small cluster of sea-front fishermen and merchant houses has expanded as more land has been reclaimed from the sea and the estuary. The town has ancient roots and has been a settlement of sorts for at least the past 35,000 years, possibly much longer.

One walk we regularly take is on the edge of town along a narrow road that leads up to La Guia: a once important defensive position where cannon were  positioned ready to repel any unfriendly visitors. There is a small church and fortress dating back to the 1700s  that was built to provide spiritual and physical protection to the defenders. Today, the small chapel and remnants of defences remain. The chapel is now dedicated to Our Lady of La Guia, the patron Saint of fishermen and houses a small but wonderful collection of models of sea-going vessels.

Sociedad Etnográfica de Ribadesella SER

The vantage point of La Guia enables you to see the mouth of the River Sella as it winds its way through the lush landscape down to the estuary and into the Bay of Biscay. From here you can see the grand Indianos-style houses that were built on re-claimed land that borders the Santa Marina beach. The houses date mainly from the early 20th century when rich emigrant traders returned from the South Americas and built grand houses and estates. Many are now hotels but a few remain private residences.

Looking further up the Estuary there is a large expanse of rock which houses probably one of Ribadesella's greatest treasures: the caves of Tito Bustillo. Discovered in the 1960s, the network of caves and paleolithic cave art dates back at least 29,000 years. It is easy to imagine how small groups of humans occupied this estuary, with the caves offering protection and the sea and the rich flood plains offering up food in abundance. As an aside, in the next village to us about 5km from Ribadesella, they have recently discovered a bone pit containing fine examples of Woolly Rhinoceros, Hyena, Deer and Bison. The pit has undergone preliminary investigation and has now been sealed until finances can be secured to undertake a full archaeological investigation.

At the far end of Santa Marina beach along the promenade, there are some fine examples of dinosaur footprints in the sedimentary rocks that have been displaced by time and seismic land movement. Over 100 million years have passed since a small family group of dinosaurs passed over mud flats and left impressions for time to seal and eventually reveal.

 I often wonder what else lies undiscovered?

Scanning the landscape and pondering times gone by makes me wonder what footprints we might leave and how the archaeologists of future times might interpret our impact, presence our legacy.

Horse racing on the beach in Ribadesella

Horses have always been a part of the landscape in and around Ribadesella. As far back as pre-history, images of horses were drawn with primitive paints in the Tito Bustillo cave in town: one of which has been adopted as a logo for tourism.

Rodrigo De Balbin Behrmann / AFP/Getty Images

Horses have worked the land for centuries and have coped well with the heavy clay ground and rocky outcrops that feature widely in the landscape. There are still working horses around the village and many roam the fields and pastures throughout Asturias. Sadly a few of these are destined for the horse meat trade - appearing in a pie near you. In addition, there are still herds of semi-wild Asturcon horses roaming the local Sueve mountain range; a great sight should you be lucky enough to spot them.

Many local fiestas feature horses competing in cintas (riders charging with a small lance to hook loops and ribbons for prizes), dressage events, endurance and strength competitions and parades. The horse, in its many forms, is interwoven into traditions and local customs. A more recent tradition which is growing in popularity is the annual Carrera de Caballo on Santa Marina beach on Viernes Santo (Good Friday).

The crowds gather along the promenade and watch the spectacle of beautifully groomed horses, racing in a circuit along the beach. This year I had to stress my camera equipment was for press purposes to be allowed onto the beach...well the blog is a form of reportage isn't it?

There are only three races but the excitement and expectation from the crowds is electric. The event is growing each year with dressage taking place today (Saturday) and many associated celebrations around town including a spectacular computerised projection onto the facade of the town hall - sadly we missed this as it wasn't advertised but managed to catch up with it via social networks and Youtube.

Here is a short film I took a couple of years ago of the racing on the beach:

A photo walk to the coast

Some of you will know that we live near the coast of the Bay of Biscay. As the crow flies, it is about 1.5 km, but to get there you need to follow one of the many old paths and caminos (tracks) still used today by farmers and villagers to access pastures where they graze their animals and grow crops. The land is not used as much these days and many of the fields have been left to over-grow. Boundary walls have collapsed and the deep ruts of the limestone paths have eroded further, but it still has a charm.

Walking from La Pasera (late afternoon) we headed down the camino which starts in the centre of the village near Angel's goats. This is a typical Asturian haystack. The track twists and turns and is bordered by many small apple orchards, still maintained for cider apple production.

There are small wooded areas and large areas of bramble and it is not uncommon to spot deer. There are a few pastures given over to horses, cows and goats. It is not unusual to spot a small vegetable patch tucked away in a corner of a field.

The track leads to a path that stretches along the cliffs leading to westward to Ribadesella and eastwards to Guadamia.

The ragged limestone is constantly honed by the weather and rough seas and in places has collapsed resulting blow-holes both large and small.

This time we walked down to Guadamia and returned via the lanes and villages. Following several days of wet and cool weather it was really good to get out for some fresh air.

Beach-combing for driftwood on Santa Marina beach

Each year in winter the beach at Santa Marina, Ribadesella becomes littered with tonnes and tonnes of driftwood and river wood. It is an amazing sight. After the pristine sand that the beach presents us with for 10 months of the year, from now until Easter time, the beach is awash with wood.

Most of the wood comes down the Rio Sella during periods of high tides, heavy rains and rising river levels. Other rivers and tributaries also contribute their fair share of wood in its many forms. There are however, some strange and incongruous finds that tell another story.

Ribadesella Council make a start on clearing the beach 

This week we made a trip down to the beach with the specific intention of finding wood to replace the cat's scratching posts that we have in the garden. The existing ones were originally from the beach a few years ago but with lots of use and natural decay they needed replacing.

Think before you throw your plastic

Needless to say we had a lot to choose from. Amongst the detritus washed ashore were single flip-flops, plastic bottles, way too many plastic bottles, a pair of badly scratched Tommy Hillfiger sunglasses, a yellow rubber duck and too many pieces of cast-away rubbish.

This year we have seen many more local people collecting firewood from the beach, a good use for it for those who are able to process it.

Our finds included several pieces of oak and chestnut that we will use for mosaic art, a carved and decorated piece of a grain store (Horreo) about 150 years old we think, a piece of oak with a carving of a bear stood on a rock, two fine scratching posts, a weathered and characterful plank and a well-washed and almost polished tree-stump.

Notice the antique nail in the top left hand corner

We will find uses for all this reclaimed treasure and enjoy it in the process. Beach-combing, well wrapped up on a fine winter's day, there is nothing better. We may be back for more, we have until mid march when it is cleared by the local council in readiness for horse racing on the beach that takes place around Easter-time.

Ribadesella - Location, location, location.

I thought it was time to help promote our region as a holiday destination. I was tempted to keep this jewel to ourselves but I think a few more tourists will not detract from the fact that it is a superb place to spend some quality time.

Ribadesella is situated on the mouth of the river Sella about 5km from La Pasera. It is our nearest town and we often either walk or drive down to meet friends, drink coffee or shop. During the main season, July-September, it is lively with many small bars with outside terraces, restaurants serving traditional food until the early hours and long promenades around the bay. Out of season Ribadesella is so, so quiet but it has terrific charm either way.

I discovered this new short film by the tourist board and thought I would share it with you. It shows our part of the coast in its full glory and features many of the beaches, cliff and woodland walks we explore on a regular basis. The music lets the video down a bit but have a look if you have a few minutes to spare, it really is special.

As I write this post I am reminded that today is a national strike here in Spain as it is in many parts of Europe. We need tourists here in Asturias and if you have never been, have a serious think about it as a destination. The film omits the grey, rainy days we have here but that's what makes our landscape so lush and green.

Asturias is an all year round destination in my opinion with so much to see and do. Using Ribadesella as a base, you are with easy reach of cities of Oviedo, Gijon, and Aviles. There is great walking either on the coast, the Camino de Santiago, woodlands or the magnificent Picos de Europa mountains. If you love the outdoors, value peace and quiet, swoon at majestic landscapes or just want time to slow down a touch, come to Asturias, it really is worth the effort.

If you think you know Spain, think again...Asturias, think Ribadesella.

If you do decide to come to holiday in Asturias there is a new website that has some excellent information and short films in English. Check it out here:  www.whereisasturias.com

Summer highlights and review from La Pasera

Summer in Asturias is a funny old affair. The weather is usually mixed with intense heat, storms, cool overcast days, misty drizzle and hot muggy nights when the winds carry fine particles of sand from turbulent storms in Africa. Generally speaking, it is never too hot for long, too wet or too cool but remains unpredictable.

The weather of course affects our vegetable and fruit crops but apart from the orchard trees being sparse  of fruit, most things seem to be cropping well. We look like we will have a bumper harvest of blackberries but the raspberries are failing and probably need renovating in Autumn.

The highlights at this time of the year in the vegetable garden are many but fennel, beetroot, lettuce, cucumber and marrow are performing exceptionally well giving us enough for cooking, preserving and juicing. Peppers, carrots, aubergines, squash, beans, tomatoes, celery, celeriac, turnip and a range of brassicas are growing well and we hope will provide enough stock to fill the dehydrator, freezer and larder.

Elsewhere at La Pasera we are busy preparing for the rastrillo (street market) next week where we demonstrate chair cane weaving and take a few completed chairs to sell.  It is usually a great day with all the money collected from stall holders who pay for space, going to medicine without frontiers. Luis' sister will join us again this year to sell her hand-crafted felt accessories.

Cane and Rush Chair Restoration blog:  www.artesanialapasera.com 

Luis' mosaic making goes from strength top strength with a steady stream of enquiries and orders. He has just been asked to design and make a garden mosaic for a family in Madrid who found his work from the Internet so he is really pleased about that.

Mosaic Blog: www.mosaicoslapasera.com

Summer is always a busier time with plenty of work to be done in the garden with the long list of maintenance and building jobs never seeming to get any less. We have laid more mosaic paths, finished damp-proofing the studio, started building a fountain to accommodate a water supply for the garden and we are making headway with sorting out the herb garden.

Not having television gives us a bit more time to enjoy our respective hobbies and interests and this summer saw the launch of a new blog Adventures in Altruism and plans are developing for an exciting new mosaic exhibition. I am writing more and involved in two projects that you will no doubt hear about in time. We are walking regularly, taking too many photographs and trying to keep relatively fit. We have made soap for the first time this year which is great and we continue to make hand-cream with plants from the garden infused in olive oil.

Writing blogs: www.ianhicken.wordpress.com


The cultural calendar in Asturias is extremely packed as usual this summer with varied events and fiestas taking place every week. We have just had the Jazz festival which was great, the International Canoe Descent of the River Sella and the local cheese fair takes place this coming week. Lots more to do and see if we get the time.

Band of young street entertainers from Seville touring Asturias this summer

Wentworth and Gawber are keeping well and sleeping most of the day when it is hot and out most of the night enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of the balmy desert night winds. Gawber had a problem with a plaque build-up on his teeth but he let us clean them and with the addition of natural anti-plaque granules in their food, it should no longer be a problem.

Gawber and Wentworth

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