August at La Pasera

Summer is well and truly here. Along with the hotter weather, influx of tourists, much needed rain and more events than you can shake a stick at, it's all happening in and around La Pasera.

We have had an exceptionally dry May, June and July with little or no rain which is unusual for Asturias. The clay ground had started to crack and the normally green grass became scorched and brown. Thankfully the rain came a few days ago and after several heavy showers and a few half days of persistent drizzle, the land is looking greener and the crops are perking up.

We are currently harvesting lots of beans, chili peppers, tomatoes, beetroot, raspberries, marrows and cucumbers with many more crops to come over the next few weeks. One plant we haven't grown before is Lemongrass, we know when it will be ready to harvest but would welcome ideas on preparing it, and preserving it for cooking. Get in touch if you've grown it and can advise us.

We have had another load of wood delivered in preparation for winter. It is mainly Oak and needs to dry further but it was a good price and a decent amount.

We are staying away from town (Ribadesella) for the next few days as life is about to change as thousands of tourists arrive in preparation for the 78th International Descent of the River Sella. There will sound stages, closed roads, outside bars and toilets, lots of partying, camping in every available patch of grass....litter and of course the canoe descent with over 1000 competitors from all over the world. We might walk down to watch the race although once the winners have passed the finish line there is not that much to see but there is a great atmosphere in town for the rest of the day and weekend.

Once the visitors for the canoe descent have disappeared, although busier than the remainder of the year, August brings many fiestas, street markets and fairs. We are busy preparing for a street market where we will sell a few chairs and stools, give a live demonstration of bergere cane work and hopefully make a few useful contacts for future work.

Maintaining the Septic Tank

This year the summer in Asturias has yet to fully bloom. It's warm but a distinct lack of daily sunshine has been upon us now for a good few weeks. We have had more rainfall than average and periods of stronger winds resulting in cooler temperatures than to be expected however, it is still very pleasant.

For some reason, days like today, subdued and dull, bring to mind routine maintenance jobs that need doing around the place. It was on a day like today when we noticed a slight odour coming from the septic tank. Normally there is nothing.

Living so far from mains services necessitates a septic tank which like many other things around the house and garden needs regular maintenance if it is to work effectively All the grey water and sewage is deposited in it and rain water is either collected for the garden or drained into it's own sump. Every six month or so we inspect the septic tank and make sure it is functioning and not in need of emptying. This time, it did.

A quick phone call to Benito and within 30 minutes he is here with his huge tractor, tank and pump. Now I am sure that he quite likes coming here because unlike many of his other customers, he gets help. Luis is always eager to get involved and helps him with the extension pipes, lifts the drain and tank covers, gets him the clear water ready and generally assists. Twenty minutes later, after the system is flushed, Benito and Luis dismantle the gear, we wave goodbye and then swill down the paths and drive. They don't really need it but somehow it feels better for doing it. Then shower.

Other maintenance jobs we tackle at this time of year are making sure locks and hinges are given a bit of WD40, checking sealants and draft excluder, dusting off electrics in the workshop, checking the house for painting jobs, maintain the dry stone walling, check drains, repairing lawns from rato damage, checking waterbutts....and so on. Jobs such as these tend to get forgotten if we are not careful but if kept in mind can save a whole bundle of time in the long run.

Futher afield Ribadesella is once again buzzing with a large influx of people and much preparation work happening ready for the 75th International Canoe Descent of the River Sella on the 6th August. Many thousands of people descend on Ribadesella and Arriondas for the weekend bringing much needed revenue into the area. We'll report back on this years anniversary event.

Introducing Ribadesella - a town of two halves

When we were looking for property here in Spain, we drew a line on a map of Asturias of the area where we would be happy to live. Having visited several times previously, Ribadesella was almost in the centre of where we would prefer to settle. We ended up just 5km away in a quiet village, 1km from the coast. Ribadesella was always a favourite destination and one we never tire of.

Picture from Ayuntamiento de Ribadesella calendar 2011

Ribadesella is a small municipality of which the capital is the town of Ribadesella. It lies in the east of Asturias sited on the estuary of the river Sella, on the green coast of Northern Spain flanked by the Bay of Biscay. It is a town of two halves. The eastern half is the main hub of the town and the western half, across the bridge has a small marina, the main beach (Santa Marina) and a large residential area including hotels and holiday homes...and the high school. Out of season, the town has a population of about 4,500 inhabitants.

For 10 months of the year Ribadesella is a quiet Asturian fishing port where out of the ordinary things rarely happen. There is a small market on a Wednesday morning, many of the restaurants, hotels and shops close for long periods out of season and the small number of residents carry on with their day to day lives occasionally being interrupted and entertained by a coach full of day trippers or some out-of-season pilgrims resting as they make their way along the Camino de Santiago.

High days and bank holidays see increased numbers of incomers staying in their holiday homes or strangers wandering around the town, admiring the three storey Asturian buildings with their splendid glass galleries and busily exploring the nooks and crannies of the old town. Strolling along one, of two promenades is a daily past time for both locals and visitors, either down past the small fish dock along the old harbour wall or to the other side of the river along the promenade that cradles the beautiful Santa Marina beach arriving after 1km or so at the dinosaur footprints that can be viewed at the farthest point of the bay.

July, August and the first half of September see a huge change in the day to day life of Ribadesella and the area in general. Large numbers of tourists descend bringing with them healthy appetites, full wallets and the lust for all things Asturian. Hotels, rental property, campsites, shops, restaurants, bars and street traders take off the dust sheets and fling open their doors in readiness for business. Suddenly, there are few places to park, prices appear to creep up a little and inconsiderate strangers invade our usual chairs and tables at the Café Bergantin.

The main attractions in town include: the Tito Bustillo cave complex with cave paintings dating back to 22,000 BC; Santa Marina beach; architectural delights such as the Indiano houses that are dotted along the beach front and in and around the surrounding areas; easy access to the Picos de Europa national park; a plethora of fiestas and celebrations; and of course the highlight of the year, the International Canoe descent of the river Sella  which takes place the first week in August. In addition, Ribadesella is a centre where a range of outdoor activities such as canoeing, surfing, quad biking, horse riding, walking, caving and climbing can be arranged.

Ribadesella has a rich history, from pre-history to the present day, the town has many stories to tell and even more secrets to discover. It once was a busy port for whaling, salt, and fishing, it played an important role in the war of independance and in the late 1800s and early 1900s many of its residents emigrated to Cuba, Central and South America, making their fortunes, returning home and investing their money in lavish residential status symbols that are still enjoyed today.

Ribadesella's location, its quiet, small town feel, its colourful Celtic history and traditions, its proximity to the Picos de Europa and its spectacular landscapes make up for the few overly busy weeks in summer when we prefer to stay at home for coffee and shop in other nearby towns. It is easy to forget that the incomers and strangers are the life blood of the town, without them, unemployment would be much worse than it is and the traditions and unique culture of this part of the world would probably disappear and be forgotten. A town of two halves i.e. the holiday resort and the residential fishing town, it maybe but each half is co-dependant and co-exists in tolerant harmony year after year.

More information can be found here:  http://www.ribadesella.es/index_in.htm

74th International Descent of the Sella

Today has been the 74th International Descent of the river Sella from Arriondas to Ribadesella. Think Oxford and Cambridge boat race with canoes (over 900 of them), rapids, crowds well into 100,000's, TV crews, Live music and sound stages, 1000's of bottles of cider, outside urinals, camping, litter, young people sleeping in cars, on the streets, in the gutter and on the beach.......get the picture?

74th International Descent 

This long-standing event draws huge volumes of visitors for the weekend, many of whom are young and in a party mood. The canoe descent is secondary for some (well most of the under 25s)  but an important event in terms of the economy and employment.

We walked into town from here as the roads are far too congested with foot traffic, unsuspecting tourists in cars and police and security patrols. About 1 km from town the fields become camp sites and rubbish bins. The roadside becomes a car park and village fountains become wash rooms.

Despite the large numbers of young, predominantly worse for wear teenagers and young people, there is never sign of trouble or aggression. Most happy with the merriment of a cider induced stupor and over-priced greasy snacks.

The highlights of the descent are the passenger train that brings spectators from the start to the finish - decked out with paddles and greenery, much quieter this year I might add, the winning K2 canoeists as they head for the line after a 22km descent - pumped up and filled with adrenaline, and the hoards of tourists who are generally having a great time, drinking in the outside bars, browsing the many exotic market stalls and merry making their way through the heat of the day.