The holiday season in Asturias

Asturias is a popular destination during the heat of the summer in Spain. Many Spanish people come during the main holiday period of last two weeks of July, August and beginning of September. Many leave their town and city based apartments where the summer temperatures rarely fall below 30 degrees Celsius, to come to the milder and more tolerable northern coast; Spain's Natural Paradise, Asturias.

The once quiet towns and low-key cities now buzz with extra traffic, more pedestrians and busy terrace cafes and bars. The beaches that are mainly deserted for 10 months of the year become a mosaic of sun chairs, beach umbrellas, beach towels and sand castles. The hundreds of peaceful walking routes become punctuated with walkers, ramblers, cyclists and runners, the gentle hum of the mountains ring out with cattle bells and camera shutters and the subdued markets come to life with extra stalls and animated stall-holders eager to sell their wares to passing tourists.

As you wander around the small fishing villages, farming communities and hidden towns, the aromas of cured ham, grilled fish and seafood, still cider and barbecued meats float through the air with unprecedented regularity and the haze of wood smoke intensifies the tapestry of greens, golds and blues that are typical of summer here in Asturias. During the next few weeks we will see and hear a proliferation of fiestas, music festivals, street theatres and recitals, all geared up to entertain and bemuse both the locals and the incomers; something for everyone.

It is great to see this influx of visitors during the summer months and although it can upset our normality, we realise that the economy needs it. What always confuses us is why Asturias is so quiet during the remainder of the year? We appreciate that it is the main holiday period for many Spanish workers but we feel that there is no-where better to visit in Autumn or Spring and even Winter than this beautiful region of Spain. OK the weather can be unpredictable particularly in Spring and sometimes in summer but cooler and wet weather fronts rarely last for long and after all, that is why Asturias is so green and lush. With mountains, woodlands, pastures and coast, larger cities and quaint villages all easily accessible within half an hour no matter where you stay, Asturias really does cater for all tastes.

Below are a couple of videos that show some of the beauty of Asturias, the first is a video from the hotel we first stayed in on our first time in Asturias (worth a visit) and the second is one I have featured before of the Cares Gorge; the most iconic walk in Asturias. Who knows we just might meet here one day....?

Winter walk along the Cares Gorge, Picos De Europa, Asturias and León, Spain from Tomas Millar on Vimeo.
A walk along the Ruta Del Cares in Northern Spain. Posada de Valdeón - Caín (León) to Puente Poncebos (Asturias) - Courtesy of www.casausborne.com.

Filmed using:
DJI Phantom Quadcopter
GoPro Hero 3
H32D Gimbal

Walking in Asturias: The Reconquest Path

For me (Luis), one of the main challenges I face when walking in Asturias is following the intended path as the way-marking on some of the walks isn't very clear. Frequently the way-marks can be difficult to spot when they comprise of a fading yellow dot painted on the rock or a pile of limestone that can easily be missed.

To compound this situation, I need to add in to the equation my poor sense of direction. Normally I am dependent on others to go out and enjoy the numerous maintain walks off the beaten path within the Picos de Europa National Park. Having said that, I have started looking at maps closely so that I can build up some confidence in my map reading skills that will allow me to venture further into the mountains and thus discover some remote areas while occasionally enjoy the solitude of a solo walk.

 

I recently ventured out on a beautiful 9 hours walk, my first solo walk along part of a well known route that crosses the length of the National Park, The Reconquest Walk. This is a very long walk that normally comprises two ten hour walks with an overnight stay in one of the mountain refuges; for those who want to walk its entire length.

My walk started in an area I am familiar with and I had previously seen the path in the distance while on a walk with someone else who was in charge of navigation.

Having told Ian of my intended route and the latest time by which I was planning to return home, my main safety consideration was to ensure that I would always find my way back to where the car was before venturing further up into the mountains or across the valley before me.

The Reconquest path starts at the church of Covadonga where history tells us how the first king of Asturias, Pelayo, was told in a dream by the virgin Mary where to hide before defeating the Moors in a big battle and thus starting to reconquer the Iberian peninsula from several centuries of Muslim rule.

After driving up to Lake Ercina, one of the mountain lakes within the park, I walked familiar territory to Belbin, alpine pasture land where I would join the Reconquest path on the way towards the Cares Gorge.

You cannot imagine my excitement as I was able to pinpoint my position within the map. A series of shepherd's huts among lush pasture provided me with the reassurance I needed to proceed up the mountains and across the valleys knowing I could always trace back my steps to where the car was.

After several hours enjoying my walk in solitude across dramatic landscapes that took me across meadows, wide valleys and steep hills, I reached an area known as Oston where shepherds spend the Summer months tending their livestock and making cheese.

The Oston area is impressive with magnificent views towards the central Massif and into the Cares Gorge also known as "The Divine Gorge"; its beauty does justify the name.

From Oston I decided to take the zig-zag path that descends about 600 meters into the Cares Gorge and have my lunch knowing I would return back up in the midday heat but the effort was worth the views. On the way down, the scent of wild oregano was incredibly strong.

On the return I could not resist the tranquillity and beauty within the Belbin pastures and thus stopped for a while to take in the views and celebrate finding my path without getting lost other than for the 30 minutes detour I took by mistake. As a result I ended conquering an additional small hill which I did not really mind as I had an opportunity to admire lots of butterflies feeding on the alpine Eryngiums (Sea Holly) that were in full bloom at this time of the year. I wonder where my sense of adventure will take me next?

Colour in the garden

Approaching our village on the Camino de Santiago

Asturias is not known as a Natural Paradise without reason. It's lush landscapes, almost pristine coastline, soaring majestic mountains and mosaic of many colours however, come at a price: rain. Generally speaking this temperate climate is lovely but when the rain comes it certainly makes its presence known. Hard, long, persistent and powerful rain.

As we head though Spring the colours are vivid, all around the meadows are blooming, trees are blossoming and flowers bow from bud to bloom and fade from bloom to fruit and seed. The cherry trees have suffered these past few days with the intense hard rain and occasional hailstorm. Thousands of tiny flowers have been stripped from the branches and pollinating insects have been few.

Between rain showers is is always good to wander around the garden and appreciate the beautiful spring colours in the beds, borders, trees and bushes.

We encourage a mix of semi-formal planting and wild, natural areas where orchids, bluebells and grasses can thrive.

It never ceases to amaze us how quick things can grow and spread here. Perhaps it is the warm and humid conditions.

The vegetable beds have been cleared of the last broccoli, celery and beetroot plants. Whatever we collect, we compost and add back into the beds later on in the year. We are currently harvesting cauliflowers, the last of the leeks, broccoli and mange tout. We also have many lovely local avocados kindly gifted to us by friends.

    

Walking in Asturias 13: Dragon's breath and caves by the sea

Today is Luis' Birthday. On our Birthdays we usually choose to do a favourite walk, take a packed lunch and set off early. Luis chose to walk from home in Toriello to Cuevas del Mar and back. A walk we have done many times but one which we never tire of.

The weather was forecast as being overcast but reasonably warm, ideal walking weather along the coast. The cooler sea breeze is always welcomed as it blows up and over the limestone cliffs.

We decided to walk the country lanes and villages on the way there and return by the coastal path.

Passing through the villages of Llames de Pria and Garana it is always interesting to see what has been newly built, to admire new plots being used for vegetables, to chat with passing pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostello, pass the time of day with locals and to take in the sights and sounds of country life in the sleepy back waters of Asturias.

The beach at Cuevas del Mar was deserted with only one or two camper vans cooking bacon and sausage and re-packing their vans prior to the next leg of their journey.

The wild flowers were amazing with the lanes and footpaths lined with carpets of pink, blue, purple,  white yellow and orange flowers. The sea was choppy, the breeze was gentle and the sky remained, on the whole, blue with fast moving Columbus clouds.

We made our way home via the footpaths and tracks near to the coast, stopping for lunch in a quiet hollow. Tortilla, black olives, celery, bread, fruit and water was the order of the day, perfect picnic food which we shared with some local ducks that occupied a nearby pond.

The cliffs approaching home are spectacular. With high tides, the blow holes were spraying sea water high into the air and forcing air through the many fissures in the limestone bedrock. According to local folk lore, from a distance it sounds like the roar of dragon's breath. Some of the fissures have become mini inland oceans and caves that are several hundred meters from the coast, just the place for dragons to hide.

The walk took about 6 hours in total but we stopped regularly to observe the landscapes and take in the natural beauty that surrounded us. Happy 46th Birthday to Luis.

Birthday treats - walking in Asturias

For many years now both Luis and I have celebrated our birthdays by forsaking unnecessary presents and choosing a favourite walk instead. This past weekend I celebrated my birthday in style by choosing to set off from La Pasera along the coast towards Cuevas del Mar.

There are so many walks in Asturias it is difficult to choose just one but the fact that we could set off from home and leave the car helped me make up my mind.

After a leisurely start, we packed up lunch, plenty of drinks and a few essentials: camera, binoculars, sunscreen... The weather forecast was good with plenty of sun and a slight breeze, perfect walking weather.

Leaving home

Setting off around 10am we decided to walk the caminos (country lanes) and footpaths through local villages and return via the coastal path. It was good to see that many of the holiday and weekend homes were occupied and that one or two new houses were being built and several renovations of older properties were in progress. Despite the downturn in the economy, Asturias still attracts many Spaniards from the cities who have holiday homes here or who rent apartments and village houses for short breaks.

The small network of caminos that connect the villages are very quiet and provide a good vantage point for the numerous vegetable plots, orchards and meadows along the way. Luis took the opportunity to compare onion size and blight progress as we walked and was heard to say on more than one occasion "mine are bigger than them..."

The Roman Bridge

The hedgerows and fields were busy with birds and insects, with numerous lizards soaking up the sun's rays or making a mad dash across the road as we approached. Bird song and the sound of strutting crickets accompanied us and the heady scents of orange blossom, mint, wild roses and roasted meats wafted in and out of our space.

We arrived at Cuevas del Mar around 12 noon after stopping en route several times to look at birds, take photographs or to chat to people we met along the way. Being such a small community means that most permanent residents know who you are or know someone who knows who you are... In general, they are a friendly bunch and the chance to chat for a while is welcomed by both parties (although I often lose my concentration or cannot understand their strong accents so I revert to the fixed half smile and nodding head syndrome with the occasional Si, Bale, or shrug of the shoulders...).

Cuevas del Mar

The water is still very cool

We explored the beach and rocks for a while, took refreshment and decided to commence our return along the coastal path where we could find a shady spot for lunch. Along the route there is a pond with shade where a few ducks and geese have taken up residence. There is something really nice about nibbling your favourite snacks and foods outside on a summer's day whilst enjoying the sights and sounds of the countryside.

We made our way back and stopped for ice cream in Llames de Pria arriving home about 3.30pm. It isn't a long walk, probably about 14 miles but never-the-less we welcomed the chance to relax in the garden with Wentworth and Gawber back at La Pasera with a cup of tea and a large slice of Luis' apple and walnut cake. A great birthday treat.

Nearly home

The Enchanted Path - Walking in Asturias

In a green luscious valley not too far from La Pasera is a magical, enchanted path. In the tiny village of Puente Nueva, a hollow wooden tree full of climbing Imps marks the start of the walk. If you are very, very lucky and start the walk early, you will be greeted by Chisin the fox terrier. After having sussed you out, Chisin will, or will not accompany you on your circular walk around the enchanted path.

The fox terrier is one of several village dogs that have discovered the delights of visitors wishing to explore their beautiful valley. Although we have walked the path several times before and once before with Chisin, today he also decided to enjoy our company.

The walk climbs the valley side, twisting and turning on woodland paths and country tracks. Along the way there is a series of beautifully crafted carved wooded statues that represent the mythology of Asturias, each having a story to tell or a secret to hide. Passing through sleepy villages and rustic farmsteads, the enchanted walk provides lots of opportunities to enjoy the views of rolling hills and luscious meadows.

As we descended along an ancient roman road towards lower lying villages we were somewhat baffled when we were joined by another Fox Terrier who also decided to join our party. We later learnt her name was Guindilla (Red hot chilli pepper).

Arriving at Rio Caliente we picked a perfect spot next to the river for our picnic lunch. Chisin and Guindilla wandered off or a few brief moments to check out a few other walkers they spotted in the distance before settling down next to us on the river bank. I wonder if the aroma of tortilla and home-baked bread had anything to do with their decision to stay?

Having shared our meal we set off along the quiet country lanes back the the car. Chisin led the way whilst Guindilla meandered off in another direction, probably back to her pick up point for more walkers. We arrived back at the car and said goodbye to Chisin and thanked him for his company, his dignified companionship truly did make the path enchanted. The walk is about 10km and we hear that Chisin may do the walk several times a day.

Guindilla

Chisin